Selvedge Denim Jeans
I finally finished my jeans and couldn’t be happier with the way they turned out. I used a 12.25 oz, raw, selvedge denim from the famous Cone Mills in North Carolina. After working with muslin for so long, it was nice to use some quality fabric that I would actually wear.
My main concern leading up to this project was that the sewing machine (Pfaff select 1526) would not be able to handle the thickness of the denim. For the most part it did just fine. In a few really thick areas, where I was sewing through two flat felled seams (the crotch point and where the back yokes came together), I had to hand crank the machine. This was fine by me because I tend to sew at a snail’s pace anyway.
The denim is a bit streaky, which I like because it gives the jeans some subtle texture. I added a branding leather patch that I left blank because I haven’t thought of a name for my “line” yet. I also added rivets to this pair, and lined the fly with the same fabric I used for the front pocket bags.
There are a few changes and improvements I would make on the next pair. The second muslin practice pair I made from my pattern had a little extra room in the waistband. I debated whether or not I should modify the pattern when cutting out the denim. After trying on the muslin practice pair multiple times, I thought that maybe the muslin had stretched, which would explain the extra room in the waist. I also thought the denim would be stiff and I would want a little wiggle room, so I left the extra room in the pattern when I made this pair. I wish I hadn’t because my waistband is still too big. While I can wear them with a belt, I was hoping for a perfect fit.
I would also take in the pattern through the entire length of the leg to make the overall fit a little slimmer. The last change or improvement I would make is to my top-stitching, which I’m sure will improve with time and practice. The top-stitching in the fly area is less than perfect, but will be fine for everyday wear.
The front pocket lining has greetings in multiple languages from all over the world. I used the selvedge on the fly as a way to reduce bulk.
Despite the waist being a bit big and my top-stitching wavering here and there, I am thrilled with the way these turned out. Armed with my own pattern and an obsession with high quality denim, I can’t see myself ever buying a pair of store bought jeans again.