Progress on my jacket project is extremely slow but steady. I’ve managed to throw together another hunk of muslin to quickly test out the basic shell of my men’s jacket pattern. At this point I’m just making sure the collar/lapel pattern pieces actually work together. I’m not concerned about how the collar notches look or how the lapels roll/lay on this test garment. This was my first attempt at making a notched lapel and found it somewhat difficult. I haven’t consulted my tailoring books yet (I should have), but I’d love to hear about any good online resources for notched lapel construction.
From here I need to add some shape to the side seams and center back seam, decide what I want to do for darts, and start the lining pattern.
I made a quick list of projects that I hope to complete in 2012. My main focus here is building a wardrobe from scratch so I’m sticking to the basics: shirts, pants, and a jacket.
- This jacket is a priority, but I may end up making some of these other things below first.
- Another pair of selvedge denim indigo jeans. My last pair is still doing great, (they are only a year old) but I want to have a fresh crisp pair in the closet
- A pair of natural selvedge denim (light canvas color) jeans for spring/summer
- At least 2 heavier weight winter shirts
- At least 2 light weight spring/summer shirts
It seems like a fairly short list for an entire year, but this is more than I completed in 2011. Who knows, maybe I’ll pick up the pace and get even more done!
A whole month has gone by since the last update on my jacket patten, but I promise I really am working on it. A couple in-progress pictures are below. Currently I am working on the lapel roll line and collar. In addition to having less time to work on the pattern lately, the added complexity of jackets makes the drafting process more time consuming than the other patterns I have made.
In my research on jacket drafting I came across this video, which talks about the process a cutter/tailor goes through in precisely recording every detail of the human body, and how he/she then translates that information onto a paper pattern that can be altered and modified over time. As Nina in the video says, these patterns tell stories. They aren’t just bits of paper. Sometimes good stories can take a while to develop.
Negative Space from FUMF on Vimeo.
This is the first of what I hope to be a whole series of posts on each step I go through to make a jacket, from drafting the initial pattern to the finished garment. I finally completed a working version of a men’s jacket sloper, which is what I consider the first step. This is a simple pattern with a front, back, and sleeve to establish the general shape of a jacket. None of the details that you would expect to find on a finished pattern such as pockets, side panels, lapels, collar, lining, etc., are on this version.
I tested the pattern in muslin and the fit is pretty good for a first attempt. Depending on what I end up doing with the lining, I might need to add some ease and drop the armhole a little bit to allow for any added insulating layers. Initially I was going to keep this a really simple, single layer, lightweight jacket, but with the temperatures dropping this fall, I’m tempted to try and make something that will keep me warm in colder weather.
As soon as I get this sloper tweaked to perfection, I’ll start adding all of the details that make it a real jacket pattern.