Pants
I pretty much stick to what I think of as basic wardrobe staples for all of my projects. Other than jeans, it doesn’t get any more basic than a pair of khaki chinos. Creating a closet full of garments that work together, that can be mixed and matched, has been my mission from the very beginning; and khakis go with just about everything I own.
Most of my projects so far have been men’s shirts and pants, and going forward (fair warning), you can probably expect a lot more posts about shirts and pants. Because that’s what I wear. Shirts and pants.
I realize that this approach might be a little on the boring side, especially for those who enjoy bright colors and loud prints, but I spend too much time on each piece of clothing for any one item to not work with at least part of my wardrobe. Plus, I’m not sure if I can really pull off bright and loud the way some people can.
I love the versatility. They can be dressed up a little, or made to look more casual if I choose. The picture on the left was taken in San Francisco at an amazing little bookstore called Omnivore Books that sells nothing but cookbooks. How cool is that? Wall-to-wall cookbooks. My wife Lindsay and I were there promoting our book in February.
This isn’t my first time making this style of pant. While my first pair was fine at the time, I wanted to make a few improvements. In the process of trying to alter the pattern, I ended up with some unexpected leg twist. I’m not completely sure if the twist is due to cutting out the pattern off grain a little bit, or if my pattern adjustments simply altered the fit in ways I didn’t realize.
The next time I make these I have to fix the twist at the side seams of course, but I’m also going to experiment with a cut-on waistband and some really light weight fabric. I need some pants that can be comfortably worn in the summer in Tennessee without feeling like I’m going to melt, or dye, or sweat to death.
Speaking of warm weather clothes, my plan is to tackle t-shirts next.
posted March 19, 2013 by Taylor
This is pretty much a repeat of my last post except in a different color. I used the same pattern but made this pair of jeans out of a lighter weight, natural cream colored denim. Up close this denim basically looks like painting canvas, sprinkled with little brown and black bits that I assume are left over from the cotton plant. Hopefully this 11.5oz fabric will stay cooler on those hot, humid summer days.
100% cotton, 11.5oz, Natural, Red Line, Cone Mills selvedge denim
“Slim” fit, straight leg
Single needle stitching
Button fly
Brass rivets and buttons
Handmade by me from my own pattern
posted April 5, 2012 by Taylor
So I got a little distracted from my jacket project. I’ve had this remnant piece of denim from the Supply Shop that’s been taunting me to turn it into a pair of jeans, and I finally gave in. I’m putting the jacket on hold for a little while to make some other things from my fabric stash, but I did end up finding a nice piece of cotton and some lining for the jacket when I get around to finishing the pattern.
100% cotton, 13.5oz, Red Line, Cone Mills selvedge denim
“Slim” fit, straight leg
Single needle stitching
Button Fly
Copper rivets and buttons
Handmade by me from my own pattern
posted February 24, 2012 by Taylor
Self-drafted pattern
Flat front, button fly
100% cotton twill
With the exception of a few minor changes, this pattern is identical to the first pair of chinos I made earlier this year. I’ve never been too wild about olive colored pants, but this fabric has just enough gray in it to make this color one of my new favorites.
While they appear to taper quite a bit, I think this is just my stance in this photo. For the most part, the pattern is cut fairly straight. Now I just need to make two or three more pairs in other colors.
posted September 21, 2011 by Taylor
Cone Mills, Blue Line Selvedge Denim
100% Cotton, 11.5 oz
Just in case you were wondering, the easiest way to get into a girl’s pants…is to make her a pair.
For the past few months I’ve been working on a pattern for a pair of selvedge denim jeans for my wife Lindsay. After she saw how awesome my jeans turned out, she has been coveting a pair for herself. Three test fit garments later and countless adjustments to the pattern, she finally has a pair of jeans.
She wanted a slightly looser fit, which we are calling the “the husband” cut. This was actually helpful when trying to preserve the selvedge on the side seam. Women have curves, which is a good thing of course, but they also present a challenge for novice pattern makers like me. The jeans basically have a straight leg with a very slight taper on the inseam. They feature two topstitching thread colors, a zipper fly, and hand-felled yoke, center back, and inseams.
They are the definition of awesome.
Yep, those are cupcakes on her pocket lining, which is completely appropriate if you know Lindsay. She is a cupcake queen, and our fridge is always packed full of amazing desserts that she makes from scratch. I am a lucky guy in more ways than one. You can read all about her/our culinary adventures on her food blog Love & Olive Oil.
As she wears the jeans and the denim breaks in, I’m sure I will be making adjustments to improve the pattern for the next pair.
posted June 11, 2011 by Taylor
Are they chinos, or khakis, or in this case both? I see the names used interchangeably, but I wonder if anybody really knows. The purists say that “chino” is a type of pant and “khaki” is a color. I say when you know how to make ‘em yourself, you can call them whatever you want to.
Self-drafted pattern
Flat front, button fly, slim fit
100% cotton twill
First attempt at making welt pockets.
Lined waistband.
posted May 4, 2011 by Taylor
Peter, who runs one of my favorite blogs, Male Pattern Boldness, is organizing a jeans sew along! Starting on Monday, May 2nd, you can follow along step-by-step and learn how to make yourself a pair of jeans. I participated in his Mens Shirt Sew Along earlier this year and had a blast. There was a mix of beginners and experienced sewers, which I’m sure will be the case with the Jeans Sew Along. For the Shirt Sew Along he set up a Flickr group so people could post pictures of their project, ask questions to the group, and share information.
Peter is very entertaining and fun to read. He makes men’s as well as women’s clothing. Plus, you can find a large sewing community at his blog with people who are making really interesting projects. It is a great place to learn new things and connect with like minded sewers. I have learned a lot from him, and highly recommend his blog to anyone interested in sewing.
So if you have ever wanted to make yourself a pair of jeans, the time is now! Get over to Peter’s blog and check it out. It is completely free other than your materials, which brings me to some big news.
I’ve decided to open a little Supply Shop specifically for those who want to make their own jeans and denim related projects. This has been in the works for a while now and I’m excited to officially make the announcement. My goal is to make this a one stop shop, with all of the supplies to make a quality pair of jeans in one place.
There are a few items in the shop now, and I will be adding more denim options, rivets, buttons, and thread in the coming weeks. Eventually the shop will move to its own website, but for now everything is available on the Supply Shop page above.
I am only stocking products that I actually use myself. The denim is raw, unwashed, Cone Mills selvedge, which is some of the best denim in the world in my opinion. I also have rivets and jeans buttons available that are easily attached with a hammer, no special tools required. The thread is available for pre-order and should be ready to ship by the end of next week.
Please let me know if you have any questions about any of these products or suggestions for the shop. I hope to run into you during the Jeans Sew Along!
posted April 28, 2011 by Taylor
