The sewing begins! If you haven’t already, you might want to look over Step 1, which dealt with assembling your pattern, choosing fabric and hardware, cutting out your fabric, and marking all of the placement and construction lines. Also, if you are sewing along and use Instagram, I’m using the hashtag #thedesmondpack for some of my construction images. Feel free to tag your pics as you make your packs. I would love to see what you come up with!

Today we will be starting construction on the exterior of the pack, specifically the side pockets.

Tips and things to keep in mind:

Throughout the sew along, I am using the “wrong” or reverse side of my denim as the “right” side. Just a reminder so there isn’t any confusion as to why I’m not using the typical dark side of the denim as my right side.

Seam allowances throughout the pattern are 1/2” unless otherwise noted. The pockets use both 1/2” and 3/4” seam allowances, and the pattern pieces are marked to show where to use a 3/4” allowance. Other than a couple of places, it really isn’t necessary to trim seam allowances like you might when making a garment. For the most part, the extra seam allowance will add a little structure to the seams, which is nice for a pack like this one.

Any place I mention edge-stitching, I’m stitching 1/16″ from the edge of the fabric. If you don’t like getting that close,  1/8″ from the edge of the fabric will work.

Side Pockets

serging edges of side pockets

Start by finishing all edges of exterior pocket pieces E with an overlock or zig-zag stitch. I’m using a serger on mine, but a tight zig-zag stitch will work just as well. These edges will be tucked inside the pockets anyway, but I like to have them finished so they don’t fray as you take objects in and out of the pockets.

zig zag stitch

Alternative zig-zag stitch along edges of pocket pieces E.

finished edges

Finished edges of both pockets.

first step of pocket hem

Fold over 3/8″ at the top of each pocket piece E to the wrong side of fabric and press flat.

second step of pocket hem

Repeat, folding over and pressing another 3/8″ to the wrong side.

pocket top-stitch hem

Once you have a nice flat edge, top-stitch the folded layers down from the right side 1/4″ from folded edge at top of pocket.

pressed under seam allowance

Next, fold under 1/2″ seam allowance on the left side of one pocket piece, and 1/2″ seam allowance on the right side of the other pocket piece. Press flat to wrong side. Don’t worry about the bottom edge and other sides of the pockets. These edges will be concealed inside the pack later.

pinned pocket

Turn pocket pieces E right sides facing up. Align pocket pieces E within exterior side pocket placement lines and pin in place to right side of exterior piece A. The pressed under side edges of the pockets should be facing the interior of piece A.

edge stitching pocket in place

Edge-stitch pocket pieces E in place along the pressed under side of each pocket. Add a second row of stitches on top of first row for reinforcement.

pocket corner reinforcement

Then reinforce the top corner of each pocket as shown above.

Lastly, baste the bottom and opposite side edges to exterior piece A 1/4″ from raw edges.

side pockets exterior

Here is what the finished side pockets should look like at this point.

That’s it for this step! We are starting out slow, but will be taking on the front zipper pocket on Monday.

Back to Step 1.