Negative Space

A whole month has gone by since the last update on my jacket patten, but I promise I really am working on it. A couple in-progress pictures are below. Currently I am working on the lapel roll line and collar. In addition to having less time to work on the pattern lately, the added complexity of jackets makes the drafting process more time consuming than the other patterns I have made.

Mens jacket pattern in progress

Mens jacket pattern front, in progress

In my research on jacket drafting I came across this video, which talks about the process a cutter/tailor goes through in precisely recording every detail of the human body, and how he/she then translates that information onto a paper pattern that can be altered and modified over time. As Nina in the video says, these patterns tell stories. They aren’t just bits of paper. Sometimes good stories can take a while to develop.

Negative Space from FUMF on Vimeo.

6 Responses to “Negative Space”

  1. allison — November 28, 2011 @ 2:14 am

    great video,

    I’m sure when you are finished getting a good fit, your jacket will be well and truly worth ever minute spent adjusting it.


  2. Cristian — December 5, 2011 @ 8:30 pm


    How did you calculate the armhole depth? A good method I’ve learned of is placing a square snug against the arm at the armpit and chalk marking it on your back. Then, you can take a measuring tape and measure from the nape of your neck down to that point at the middle of your back. You could chalk both arms and then make a line across your back to see that point at the middle of your back. This direct measurement plus 1/2-1″ should be suitable and would avoid the possible complications of a block pattern’s armhole depth drawn too low.

  3. Linda Slater — December 7, 2011 @ 12:26 am

    That video was fabulous – thankyou!

  4. Taylor — December 9, 2011 @ 3:09 pm

    Hi Cristian,

    Thanks for the armhole depth tip. I based the initial pattern off of an upper body block I drafted a while back. My block was already very close fitting with a high cut armhole, so drawing the armhole too low for the jacket pattern hasn’t been a problem. I’ll have to try your method out sometime.

  5. Scott — December 12, 2011 @ 2:45 am

    Are you basing this design off of a design in the book? I really want to make a simple jacket, like a dickies eisenhower, but using waxed cotton.

    I just ordered How to Make Sewing Patterns by Donald H. McCun, have you looked at it? It gets good reviews, but I want to make a pair of jeans, shirts that fit my long arms and a jacket, Is the Knowles book the best you’ve come across?

  6. Taylor — December 12, 2011 @ 1:44 pm


    As with most of my projects, I am starting this design based on the book, but then changing it quite a bit to make it my own. This first jacket will most likely be made out of a heavy duck cotton, but I’m not quite sure yet.

    I don’t have any experience with the book you mentioned, but it might be something to check out later. The Knowles book is the only book I’ve used to draft patterns, so I don’t have much to compare it to yet. I would be interested to see what you think of the McCun book. Good luck!


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