Jacket Project Update
Progress on my jacket project is slow but steady. I finally have all of the pieces drafted. When you take all of the pockets into account, there are a gazillion little pattern pieces for different sized welts, pocket linings, and bits of interfacing for reinforcement. Plus, the lining basically needs a separate pattern to allow for ease and attachment seam allowance.
My procedure so far has been to draft a pattern using the method I talked about here. Once I had the front, back, side panel, and two piece sleeve finished, I made a muslin shell without any pockets or details (shown above) to see if the pattern was even close to fitting. The fit was far from perfect, but it was a good place to start. I tend to mark all over my muslins in pen, which makes transferring the adjustments to my paper pattern much easier. While I want a high arm hole, the initial pattern had the arm hole placed too high. The shoulder point also needed to be moved, and the upper arm area needed some additional ease.
I adjusted my pattern accordingly and started a second muslin. This time around I cut out the entire jacket, lining, and all of the pockets to do a proper test fit and make sure all of the pocket pieces work together. I also want to do a practice run through the lining construction, as this will be my first time dealing with a lining (in clothing at least).
There are lots of firsts for me with this project. The single welt chest pocket is something I’ve never made until this muslin. It will take some practice to get the corners and edges straight and crisp, but overall, this type of pocket didn’t seam that much more difficult than the welt pockets I’ve made for chinos.
I love that this project is really challenging me to learn new techniques and construction methods. This is by far the most complicated garment I’ve ever made.